Delusions of Grandeur

25 foot swell = Waist high... But good things come to those who wait (or drive).


Stupid high tide...



B.F.M.











Stole this rad image from the Cliff Mass weather blog.  If you don't read it you should.

Heard there was some shit out there, but I was too lazy to go that far...  I had visions of big, hollow, long lefts, and instead I saw short, chest high, brownies on the beach...  I had given up hope, but decided to check a couple more spots anyway...  I mean, I had already missed my class so what else am I gonna do?

  Good thing I stopped, it was sick as hell... 

4 comments:

barn said...

oh, she's a fickle bitch...

drexnefex said...

im emotionally drained.

SurfingwithSasquatch said...

I had given up. then I scored. So sick. The secret is checking everywhere and waiting a really long time...

drexnefex said...

i put four days into that bitch. i was really patient. only waves i scored were scary. borderline not fun.