Two a Days










Hit up the beach early before work and the swell was building, but it was all jumbled and disorganized.  I got in for a few minutes, but had to leave for work...  I could see behemoth rollers outside while I worked, so I did the only thing I could, and left early...

It was pretty damn good.  Finally surfed with other people for once ( a biologist from Chicago, a dude who hitch-hiked from Sequim, and some other guy).  I surfed until like 9:00 before I went home.  Super fun session, and the biggest waves there in awhile...

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