Cold Tropical



Started the day with an unsuccessful trip for some Nookie...

A grey, flat, fishless, and dreary start to the day...





You know its nice when the beach is steamin'...





The day started early with a trip out to Waddah for some fish.  My buddy and I look pretty ridiculous in our 8 foot zodiac mingling with all these big expensive fishing boats...  Didn't catch any fish and I wasn't expecting to catch any waves with this small swell, but I checked regardless....  Lines out the back means I am hauling ass down to the beach...

I thought the water was clear before, but this was out of control.  I could see little Sand Sole skittering away from me 10 feet down...  If the water wasn't so cold it would have been tropical.  Azure water.  White Sand.  Steaming (literally) hot beach.  Eagles.  Nobody else...  There were also some super sick head high nuggets rolling through (a little inconsistent but who cares when its that nice!)...

I was freaking on how good the waves were.  Whenever I surf by myself I constantly look down the beach expecting to see a trio of surfboards bobbing towards me...but they never come.  I did my first full on roundhouse cut back too.  The waves got to that size where if you don't fade into the flats after the drop you will end up shooting down the line way too far.  I made that mistake, so I opened my front shoulder and cut all the way around, banged it off the top, and ended up shooting right back into the wave... Sick!  That was all I did for the rest of the session...  Not the longest one so far, but probably the best (Do I keep saying that?!)...

1 comment:

drexnefex said...

right on, right on...