Unexpected Peaks












The swell picked up a little so I headed down to my usual spot looking for some peaks.  The tide was way out, but there was this crazy left going in the middle part of the beach (bottom two photos).  I have never really seen it doing anything like this, and I wasn't even sure if they were makeable.  But I got in and had a blast.  I don't know if anyone has ever seen this part of the beach breaking like this, but it was sick.  They weren't the biggest or heaviest waves, but they were chest high with some push, and they would break for a good 40 yards.  After each ride I would have to walk back up the beach again and paddle out.  It was almost like a point break...

I ended up leaving, but when I drove by again later it was going off.  The summer is flying by fast, so I want to make the most of it.  I got down there and found the usual peak banging solid.  Got some really good waves for a few hours as the sun went down.  I was really surprised at how much of the swell was getting in.  It was getting dark, but I got into the viscous cycle of wanting one more wave, getting it, then wanting another... I would not recommend that hike back up as darkness falls.  Creepy.  For some reason I started thinking of clowns, and decided that if one popped up on the trail in front of my I would probably die right there...

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