The Good, The Bad, and the Radical




















Onshores have ruined the surf for the past few days.  Got in a quick one yesterday at the Wall.  Managed to get a few nuggets, my turns are looking better (I think?)...

Headed there again this morning and it was lookin' like indo.  Headhigh drainers.  They were crazy fast and hollow as hell.  Unfortunately, someone forgot to put quarters in the machine because it shut off... It went from Sick to sad in 15 minutes.  I stuck around the beach for most of the day, going by one of my rules: "The "other" spot is not going to be as good as the one you are currently at". 

This is just one of my many rules that I try to live by.  Others being "Never drive away from good waves", "Never bring your girlfriend" (you will show up late after the best tide, and leave before the waves get good again) and "Always bring your gear, you never know where there will be waves".  I learned the last one the hard way in both Maui (Kihei which never has waves was going off when I went there for lunch without my board) and Duluth Minnesota (good luck finding a rental place!).

Anyway, ended up getting in at HB where it was sizable but lackluster...  Surfed with a dude from the other side (Vancouver Island) who made the trek down here because "The waves are better and there are less people"...

2 comments:

R said...

Damn never would of thought that place would fire this time of year. Weird to see it all sunny and clear like that.

SurfingwithSasquatch said...

It doesn't... It was kind of an out-of-season swell, and most of it came through during the night (Why does that always happen!?). I would save the trips for winter, unless you are fond of skunks...