Lessons Learned

















I decided against taking a break yesterday and ended up getting in the dirty water at HB.  Surfed some poopy waves for an hour and a half...As I was paddling back out a surf perch flew out of the water and almost slapped me in the face.  Then as I sat waiting for a set there was a large boil in the water a few feet in front of me.  I promptly turned and paddled in with my feet up feeling rather kookish...

Today the waves at HB were once again meager.  My long standing hypothesis that "the more you drink the night before, the better the waves will be tomorrow " seemed be to failing me.  So I decided to hike my hangover off (bad idea) by going down to a beach so nice they named it twice... The sign said 1.6 miles, I figured it would take me a half hour max so I didn't bring any water (bad idea), but I brought my board and gear (good idea). 

The hike took me about an hour and I showed up to pumping surf. Hypothesis proved!  I didn't have enough time to suit up since I had to be at work in an hour and a half.  Damn!  I once again felt kookish as I hiked back up in the wrong direction (away from good waves), passing some stoked arriving surfers.  Lesson learned, always leave plenty of time to surf, even if you think it swill suck...

2 comments:

tHe UrbaN GarDener said...

that trail can be pretty slow going if not prepared for all the mud and muck.

drexnefex said...

40 mins with the illegal shortcut. LP was firing too.