Solo and Smalls














After not getting in yesterday I headed to another spot, I guess the "3rd" spot is a charm... It was crazy sunny and hot, but there were no waves period.  zero.  I wasn't in a hurry so I spent my time lounging in the sun, and eventually fell asleep.  When I woke up I was sufficiently burnt, but didn't care because the swell had filled in with the tide.  I quickly suited up and spent the rest of the day surfing by myself with nobody out but a harbor seal and a couple of river otters.  The water was crystal clear blue, and sitting over the bright white sand made me feel like I was somewhere tropical.  I sat on a perfect left peak and got more waves than I could count.  My camera ran out of batteries, so I only got one shot from the bluff...

Today I spent my free time taking shots of some tiny waves rolling into the bay I am staying in.  I realized I could sit and watch waves, of any size, break and be pleased.  I got well acquainted with this micro break, and had to quit shooting when the tide came in and mushed out the "waves".   

1 comment:

drexnefex said...

awesome man. enjoy that solo time. lucky.