Bombs...



Big lipped skank of a close-out.

Outside...Way the fuck outside.  Size???  No Idea.. 15ft? 20 ft? Looked clean and broke for at least a few hundred yards.  Need a boat.

This shot is of a wave that is honestly over a mile away.. So it is pretty fucking huge (to me at least).






For some perspective.  White water to the end.  Totally non-surfable. The funny thing is that dudes with soft-tops were still trying to paddle out.  Another funny thing is that when I first started surfing I tried to paddle out at an oregon spot when the swell was 17 ft.  Why is the current moving so fast!? 

No comments: